I love this pattern!  I bought it at www.Bowls-n-Annies.com

I will warn you, the legs and arms are TINY!!
I traced out her pattern, then added on a bit at the top of the legs and the arms...to widen the hole for stuffing.
After, I simply cut off the excess that I added on, and sewed the arms and legs to the doll.  MUCH easier!

Now, to package them up for the Childrens hospital!!

The dolls hanging out on my front bench! :P

Some of the finished dolly's  This is the Little Cupcake Cutie pattern

Dolly's everwhere!!  I recently bought a dolly pattern off of Etsy.   I LOVE IT!! 
The doll arms and legs are insanely tiny, but they turn out adorable.

These dolls work up to be around 11 inches tall.  TINY!! 
I made some of these up for the toy drive.
I will post a pictures of the dollies that have made it to the kids in the hospital already.  The rest, are in various stages of completion, waiting for someone to love them.

ALL 3 of my girls have helped in making them!  They all picked out material for the dress and bloomers, all 3 have helped stuff them too. 
I, of couse, have the most work to do!  LOL
I do love to sew.

If you are interested, the patterns can be found here
www.Bowls-n-Annies.com

As soon as more are done, I will post more pictures.

The toy drive was a huge success this year!  We donated over 1000 toys to the University of MN.  We had 1119 toys the day we dropped them off.
Since then, 23 more have come in.  We will be bringing them in next time Libby goes in for her appointment.

I took some pictures of our day.
You can see them here:

(please let me know if that doesnt work...  otherwise, the address is
http://s41.photobucket.com/albums/e253/kristie25/2008%20Toy%20drive/      
I am still trying to figure out weebly.)

We had to cut our visit short.  My youngest daughter Addie developed an ear infection.  We made a trip to our friendly neighborhood pediatrician upon leaving the U of M!

I have a few new patterns to post also.  I have recently made a set of 3 rattles.
Easiest way to make any toy a rattle, insert a cat ball into it.  They are made from hard plastic, with a bell or two in the middle. They work great, unless someone steps on it!!

Good Afternoon all!!

I am excited to announce the kick off for the 3rd annual toy drive.

We (my girls and I) are once again collecting toys for the childrens hospital.
This year will be donating to the University of Minnesota Fairview Childrens Hospital.
We will be delivering the toys the middle of August. I will let you know the specific date as it gets worked out with the hospital staff.

Unfamiliar with the toy drive? Read here to see last years toy drive

http://www.crochetville.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53216

(there is a link there to the first toy drive info also)

The hospital new letter wrote an article on the toy drive also.

Read about it here

http://www.fairview.org/Foundation/

Scroll down and click on Our friend newsletter Issue 3, 2007

We are on page 11.

Want to see what I have already for the toy drive??

This fills one and half boxes. I STUFF the toys in.
For those of you who are new to this...
Here are the basics.
If you send me one toy for the toy drive, you may pick one of the patterns I am offering for free.
If you send me two or more toys, you may have both patterns emailed to you!

Interested in what the patterns are??
Here you go!

My bumble bunz pattern

And also my Bunny Love pattern.



Please pm me for my address.
PLEASE be sure to include your email address in the package, as well as which pattern, or both, that you would like!!

Last year we ended up with 14 boxes! I hope to do as many this year.

I will update with new pictures of the toys that I receive also.

As many of you know, this project is very near and dear to my heart.
I am so fortunate that my middle child (who started all of this!!) is doing fantastic.
Better than fantastic! If all goes well, she will be taken off one of her medications next August. If she does well with that change, they will continue to wean her off all her meds...and she could be medication free in just over a year!! Keep your fingers crossed!!

Feel free to email me, or pm me with ANY questions you may have.

Thank you so much!!

A special thank you to Midds who is hosting a challenge for this toy drive.
I have a feeling we will have TONS of toys this year!!

Its that time again!
I am gearing up for the 3rd annual toy drive.
This year we are going to donate to the University of Minnesota Childrens hospital again.
We had such a great experience last year.
I am hoping to top 14 boxes of toys this year....however, I will have to recruit a bigger vehicle to take to the hospital if we do!

I have one pattern done for the toy drive....Bumble-bunz.  It will be in testing within a few days.  (the yellow one still needs antennas..... everywhere I looked, they were out of black pipecleaners!!!

The other pattern, is nearly complete also. I am hoping by the end of next week to have it ready for testing.

I will have more details about the toy drive soon!

Long story short... I planned on making this part of a series of animal purses. I planned on selling the pattern.
I am SO swamped with orders for Christmas..... I just dont have time to work on the other purses right now.
Sooo....I am posting the pattern for free.
I hope you enjoy it!

This pattern has not been tested, please let me know if you find any errors!
Horse Purse

As with all my patterns, feel free to sell the completed project.
Please do not sell the pattern.  Thank you!

Supplies needed:
WW yarn
G hook
Stuffing
Stitch marker



Terms used:
Ch = chain
FO = finish off
FLO = front loops only
BLO = back loops only
Sc = single crochet
Sc-dec = single crochet decrease, done over 2 stitches
Hdc = half double crochet
Slp st = slip stitch

Body

Body is done in one continuous spiral, unless otherwise noted.  

Starting at front of body.. (mark this end for front)
Ch 2
1)  6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.
2)  2 sc in each sc around
3)  (2 sc in first sc, sc in next sc)  repeat around  (18 sc)
4)  (2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc)  repeat around  (24 sc)
5)  (2 sc in first sc, sc in next 3 sc)  repeat around  (30 sc)
6)  (2 sc in first sc, sc in next 4 sc)  repeat around  (36 sc)
7)  (2 sc in first sc, sc in next 5 sc)  repeat around  (42 sc)
8-13)  sc in each sc around
Slp st in the next sc
Ch 1, turn.  (This is making the opening of the purse)
14)  In BLO, sc in each sc around, leaving slp st unworked. Ch 1, turn. (41 sc)
15-30)  sc in each sc around.  Ch 1, turn.
31)  Sc in each sc around.  DO NOT TURN.  
Your next sc will be in 1 sc of row 31.  Going back to crocheting in a around.
32)  In FLO, sc in each sc around
33-34)  sc in each sc around
35)  (Sc-dec, sc in next 5 sc)  repeat around.  (36 sc)
36)  (Sc-dec, sc in next 4 sc)  repeat around.  (30 sc)
37)  (Sc-dec, sc in next 3 sc)  repeat around.  (24 sc)
38)  (Sc-dec, sc in next 2 sc)  repeat around.  (18 sc)
39)  (Sc-dec, sc in next sc)  repeat around.  (12 sc)
40)  Sc-dec around.  (6 sc)
Slp st to next sc.
FO leaving long tail.  Use tail to sew hole shut.


Inside circles.  (make 2)
(you will stuff ends of horse, and use these 2 circles to keep the stuffing inside)

Follow 1-7 of body…do not finish off just yet.
Turn the body of the horse inside out.  Line up the circles with the BLO of line 14, and FLO line 32.  If the circle fits well here, slp st in next sc of circle, and FO, leaving long tail.

If the circle seems too small, continue on:

8)  2 sc in first sc, sc in next 6 sc)  repeat around  (48 sc)
Slp st to next sc.  FO, leaving long tail for sewing.

Turning purse inside out,
Sew inside circles to FLO row (row 32) and BLO row (row 14), making sure to stuff semi firmly behind the circles.  (too much stuffing will cause the circles to bow out, not enough, and the horses head will not stay up)

Carefully turn purse right side out


Neck

With main color,
Ch 20, leaving a long beginning tail for sewing.
Join with slp st to first chain made, making sure not to twist chain.

At each round end, join with slp st to first sc made.

1)  Ch 1, sc in each ch around.  (20 sc)
2)  Ch 1, sc in each sc around
3)  Ch 1,  (2 sc in first sc, sc on next 9 sc) repeat once more.  (22 sc)
4)  Ch 1, sc in each sc around
5)  Ch 1,  (2 sc in first sc, sc on next 10 sc) repeat once more.  (22 sc)
6)  Ch 1, sc in each sc around
FO leaving long tail.

Horse head

Starting at horses nose, and working back.
Working in a continuous spiral.
Ch 2
1)  5 sc in 2nd ch from hook
2)  2 sc in each sc around  (10 sc)
3)  (2 sc in first sc, sc in next sc) repeat around  (15 sc)
4)  (2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc) repeat around  (20 sc)
5-7)  sc in each sc around
8)  (sc-dec, sc in next 2 sc)  repeat around  (15 sc)
9)  sc in each sc around
10)  (2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc) repeat around  (20 sc)
11)  sc in each sc around
12)  (2 sc in first sc, sc in next 3 sc) repeat around  (25 sc)
13)  (2 sc in first sc, sc in next 4 sc) repeat around  (30 sc)
14)  (2 sc in first sc, sc in next 5 sc) repeat around  (35 sc)
15-16)  sc in each sc around
17)  (sc-dec, sc in next 5 sc)  repeat around  (30 sc)
18)  (sc-dec, sc in next 4 sc)  repeat around  (25 sc)
19)  (sc-dec, sc in next 3 sc)  repeat around  (20 sc)
Stuff
20)  (sc-dec, sc in next 2 sc)  repeat around  (15 sc)
21)  (sc-dec, sc in next sc)  repeat around  (10 sc)
Stuff a bit more
22)  sc-dec around  (5 sc)
FO.  Use tail to close hole.

Ears  (make 2)

Worked in a continuous spiral

Ch 2
1)  6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
2-3)  ch in each sc around
4)  (2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc) repeat  (8 sc)
Slp st to next sc
FO leaving long tail

Arms & Legs  (make 4)

Worked in a continuous spiral
Starting with hoof color
Ch 2
1)  5 sc in 2nd ch from hook
2)  2 sc in each sc around  (10 sc)
3)  (2 sc in first sc, sc in next sc) repeat around  (15 sc)
4)  (2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc) repeat around  (20 sc)
5)  (2 sc in first sc, sc in next 3 sc) repeat around  (25 sc)
6-8)  sc in each sc around
9)  (sc-dec, sc in next 3 sc)  repeat around  (20 sc)
10)  (sc-dec, sc in next 2 sc)  repeat around  (15 sc)
Change to leg color
11-17)  sc in each sc around
18)  (sc-dec, sc in next sc) repeat around  (10 sc)
FO leaving long tail

Sew ears to horses head
Sew neck to front of horse.
Stuff neck slightly
Sew horses head to top of neck, adding in more stuffing to neck
Sew legs to bottom of purse body

Saddle  (make 2)

Saddle in worked in halves.  One half will be sewn to each side of purse opening
Do not join round ends

Ch 2
1)  4 sc in 2nd ch from hook  Ch 1, turn.
2)  2 sc in each sc across.  Ch 1, turn.  (8 sc)
3)  (2 sc in first sc, sc in next sc) repeat across.  Ch 1, turn.  (12 sc)
4)  (2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc) repeat across.  Ch 1, turn.  (16 sc)
5)  sc in each sc across
6)  (2 sc in first sc, sc in next 3 sc) repeat across.  Ch 1, turn.  (20 sc)
7)  (2 sc in first sc, sc in next 4 sc) repeat across.  Ch 1, turn.  (24 sc)
DO NOT FO, instead, ch 1, sc evenly across top edge of half circle.  
FO leaving long tail
Sew saddle to each side of purse, using pictures as a guide

Instruction on how to do mane
Cut several strands of yarn about 6-7 inches long.
You will use 2 strands of yarn at a time.
Insert hook into head from behind a sc, with the hook coming our in front of selected sc.
Grab middle of yarn strands with hook and pull through stitch, ( Like you would latch
hook!) making a small loop.
Pull all free ends of yarn strand through loop, pulling tight to mane.
It is easiest if you start at top of horse head, and work your way down the back.


Instructions for tail
Cut many strands of yarn into 12 inch or so pieces. (Each yarn strand will act as 2 strands of the tail)
When you are happy with the thickness, Cut one longer piece of yarn of the same color.
Tie tail strands together, in the middle of your yarn pieces. Tie 1-2 more knots tightly, so the tail wont come out.
Taking long yarn strand, tie onto horses rump. If you would like the tail to stand up a bit, wrap around around the tail at the base, right by the rump.

Purse straps  (make 2)

Ch 46, leaving long beginning tail
1)  Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across.  Ch 1 turn.  (45 hdc)
2)  Hdc in each hdc across.
FO leaving long tail

Sew handles to purse.  I sewed them on, one on each side of purse opening.

Sew or embroider on horse eyes.
Sew or glue on any embellishments to horses saddle, rump, etc.

Enjoy!

If you have any questions at all, feel free to email me at Kristie skids@hotmail.com

Here is a picture of the inside of the purse.  Hope this helps!!

his is what the case looks like closed.    It basically closes like an envelope, and buttons at the top. (red button is where it closes)

And here it is opened up. 

Supplies you will need
Worsted Weight yarn in any color
G hook
Small amount of material for lining
Sewing machine
1/8 elastic (optional)
Button for case closure
Anything you want to embellish the case with

With G hook, and ww yarn,

With G Hook, and ww yarn,

Ch 27 (or so, depending on the thickness of yarn)
1) sc in 2nd ch from hook, and each additional ch. Ch 1, turn. (26 sc)
Now, size the case…. Take your hook, and lay it down on the piece you just crocheted. If it seems too small, go back and add in a few chains to the beginning ch 27. If it seems way too big, go and take out a few chains. Remember, some of this will stick out at the bottom and top, around your lining.
2-22) Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.
23) In Back Loops Only, sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.
24) In Front Loops Only, sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.
You just crocheted the middle seam of the case in 23-24
26-47) Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.
48) In Front Loops Only, sc in each sc across, Ch 1, turn.
49) In Back Loops Only, sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.
You just crocheted the top seam
50) Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.
51) Sc-dec, sc in next 22 sc, sc-dec. Ch 1, turn. (24 sc)
52) Sc-dec, sc in next 20 sc, sc-dec. Ch 1, turn. (22 sc)
53) Sc-dec, sc in next 18 sc, sc-dec. Ch 1, turn. (20 sc)
54) Sc-dec, sc in next 16 sc, sc-dec. Ch 1, turn. (18 sc)
55) Sc-dec, sc in next 14 sc, sc-dec. Ch 1, turn. (16 sc)
56) Sc-dec, sc in next 12 sc, sc-dec. Ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
57) Sc-dec, sc in next 10 sc, sc-dec. Ch 1, turn. (12 sc)
58) Sc-dec, sc in next 8 sc, sc-dec. Ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
59) Sc in first 4 sc, sc-dec, sc in last 4 sc. Ch 1, turn. (9 sc)
60) Sc-dec, sc in next 5 sc, sc-dec. Ch 1, turn. (7 sc)
61) Sc-dec, chain 3, skip 3 sc, sc-dec . Ch 1, turn. (2 sc, and 3 ch’s)
62) sc in each sc and each ch across. (5 sc)
Do NOT finish off, instead, sc evenly around each side of the case.
Fasten off.

Lining and pockets.

You will need to use the hook case as a guide.

Lay the hook case on top of a double thickness of your material.

Fold the top seam in. You now have a rectangle.

Cut out the material, using your hook case as a pattern.

This is your lining.

Pockets.
These can be made many different ways.

If you prefer, you can make the same pocket going across the entire lining.

Using your lining as a pattern, cut out 1 piece of material as long as your lining, and as high as the smallest hook you want to keep in this case.

You now have a smaller rectangle.

Fold over top edge of smaller rectangle you just cut, and sew along edge seam. (If you have a serger, I would suggest serging the edge, or even zig-zaging along the edge)

.

If you would like a smaller pocket, like is pictured, cut off a portion off the shorter edge of the rectangle you have just sewn. Fold this raw edge over and pin. Pin this pocket onto one of the pieces you have cut out for the lining. This will be facing out.

Now, you need to make a smaller rectangle/square to fit into the portion you just cut off.

Cut it long enough to tuck under the raw edge you just pinned, and as high as you want it. Fold over and sew just as you did first pocket.

Tuck it under the pinned edge of the first pocket and pin into place.

If you want to add elastic to your case, now is the time to do it. I put some elastic above my small pocket. Sew one edge to lining. ( I folded this edge over so the raw elastic edge wouldn’t show) Stretch slightly, and sew opposite end to lining. (If this end does not go all the way to the end of lining, fold over and sew to lining also…otherwise, the raw edge will be hidden in the lining seam)

Paragraph.

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This is the latest design I have been working on.  Slow going.  The horse purse was easy enough to figure out...Now, I am trying to come up with a penguin. :)  I got the idea from a fellow crochetviller. (thank you!)

So far, so good. 

I will post pictures when I figure out the penguin!

Lazy Pandas

The pandas measure 4 inches long, and are 2 inches high.

Supplies needed:

Ww yarn, 2 different colors

Felt, 2 different colors to match yarn

Doll eyes, (optional, you can use felt too)

Stuffing

F hook

Stitch marker

Terms used”

Ch = chain

FO = finish off

Sc = single crochet

Sc-dec = single crochet decrease, done over 2 stitches

Slp st = slip stitch

Head

With white

Ch 5

1) 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch’s, 3 sc in last ch from hook, working on underside of beginning ch, sc in next 2 ch’s,(the middle 2), sc in last ch, (this is the first ch you 2 sc’d into) Join to first sc made with slp st. You should now have 10 sc, in the shape of an oval

2) ch 1, 2 sc in each of first 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc. Join (16 sc)

3) ch 1, (sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc) repeat around. Join. (24 sc)

4-8) ch 1, sc in each sc around.

9) ch 1, (Sc-dec, sc in next 2 sc) repeat around. Join (18 sc)

10) ch 1, (Sc-dec, sc in next sc) repeat around. Join (12 sc)

Stuff head

11) ch 1, Sc-dec, around Join. (6 sc)

FO. Use tail to sew hole on bottom of head shut.

Ears (make 2)

Ears are done in one continuous spiral. Use stitch marker if needed

With black,

Ch 2

1) 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook

2) 2 sc in each sc around. (10 sc)

3-4) sc in each sc around

Slp st to next sc

FO leaving longer tail for sewing.

Fold ears flat and curve slightly in.

Sew ears to each side of head. (see end note)

Body

Starting with white yarn,

Ch 4

1) 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, 3 sc in last ch from hook, working on underside of beginning ch, sc in next ch,(the middle ch), sc in last ch, (this is the first ch you 2 sc’d into) Join to first sc made with slp st. You should now have 8 sc, in the shape of an oval.

2) ch 1, 2 sc in each of first 2 sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc. Join, (14 sc)

3) Ch 1, (sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc) repeat around. Join. (21 sc)

Next row forms the ‘rump hump’

4) Ch 1, sc in first 2 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next) repeat 4 MORE times, sc in remaining 9 sc. Join. (67 sc)

5-7) Ch 1, sc in each sc around. Join.

8) Ch 1, sc in first 2 sc, (sc-dec, sc in next sc) repeat 4 MORE times, sc in last 9 sc. Join. (21 sc)

Change to black yarn. (or contrast color)

9-11) Ch 1, sc in each sc around

12) Ch 1, (Sc-dec, sc in next 5 sc) repeat around. Join. (18 sc)

13) Ch 1, (Sc-dec, sc in next 4 sc) repeat around. Join. (15 sc)

FO leaving long tail.

Stuff body. Push a bit of extra stuffing into rump hump. Make sure rump hump is facing upwards when you sew to head.

Sew body to back side of head. This will make the panda appear to be laying down. See end notes.

Arms/Legs (make 4)

Arms/legs are done in one continuous spiral, use stitch marker if needed. See note at end about stuffing arms/legs

With black/contrast color

Ch 2

1) 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook

2) (2 sc in first sc, sc in next) repeat once. (6 sc)

3) (2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc) repeat once. (8 sc)

4) (2 sc in first sc, sc in next 3 sc) repeat once. (10 sc)

5) (2 sc in first sc, sc in next 4 sc) repeat once. (12 sc)

Slp st to next sc

FO leaving long tail.

Stuff and sew onto panda body

Tail

With black/contrast color

Ch 5

1) 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook

2) 2 sc in each sc around. (10 sc)

3-) sc in each sc around

Slp st to next sc

FO leaving long tail.

Fold tail flat, and curve slightly in.

Sew tail to rump hump. J

Eye patches are done in felt. You may need to experiment with different sizes of pieces to figure out what looks good.

I cut the felt to look like ovals. Black being the biggest oval, white being a bit smaller. The actual eye can be made from felt, or use a button if preferred. Keep in mind, it maybe a bit difficult to sew the eye on, going through the glue from the eye patches.

 

Note about panda:

The panda is made in pieces, and assembled to look like he is laying flat on the ground. The body is sewn directly to the back side of the head. Make sure to line up so the head, body, arms/legs all sit on the flat surface.

The easiest way to stuff the arms and legs… start with a long tail before chaining 2. Use this tail to stuff inside the arms/legs. This way, white stuffing doesn’t show through.

You may find it helpful (I do) to pin on body parts before sewing or gluing. This way you can get the placement to your satisfaction.

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I addressed this issue in Crochetville a few days back.

I was contacted by another member of that forum about my patterns being passed around.   She informed me that my Floppy Friends 1 & 2, were being sent out.    I have asked her for more info, however, she has not been back on c'ville, nor has she answered my emails.

PLEASE, if you have any information on who is sending these out, LET ME KNOW.

I will reward you with free patterns.  I am not above bribing people.

Seriously, though, passing out these patterns is NOT acceptable.  I feel that I am being more than fair with posting free patterns.  Not only are most of my patterns free, you can make and sell whatever you make from my patterns.  This goes for both my free patterns, as well as any purchased.

Again, please let me know if you have any info on this illegal activity.

Thank you!